10 Macro Photo Tips for Beginners

October 3, 2017 - photo frame

In this article, I’ll be pity 10 macro photography tips for beginners who are usually starting out in a genre.

#1. Lens

There are several good lens options for macro photography. You could use extension tubes total with a normal lens, that gives we some magnification. Or even better, we could reverse a normal lens, that total with prolongation tubes gives even some-more magnification. The many available and stretchable choice though, generally for a amateur within macro photography, is to get a dedicated macro lens.

The many renouned models come in focal lengths between 90-105mm, and have 1:1 magnification. There are also shorter focal lengths such as 50mm or 60mm, yet these have shorter operative distances, that means we have to get really tighten to your subject, risking to shock it away. 1:1 magnification means that when we concentration as closely as possible, your theme is as vast on a sensor as it is in genuine life. So if we have a full support sensor of 36×24 mm, it means that any insect we wish to fire that is 36 mm long, usually about fits in your picture.

If we use an APS-C or Micro Four Thirds camera, we will get your theme magnified even some-more during 1x, as a sensor is smaller. These normal, 1:1 macro lenses, are done by many vital brands, such as Sigma’s 105mm, Canon’s 100mm, Nikon’s 105mm, Samyang’s 100mm, Tamron’s mythological 90mm, Sony’s 90mm, and Tokina’s 100mm. They cost around $400 to $1,000, and they are all pointy and good value for money.

Many these lenses have design stabilization, that is a good thing, as it creates combination a lot easier. Have a demeanour during reviews and buy one that we like. You can’t go wrong with a ~100mm 1:1 macro lens – design peculiarity wise, many of them furnish allied results.

#2. Location and weather

Some of a many engaging subjects to sketch with a macro lens are tiny bugs and insects. Flowers and several plants are also fun, and can mostly make engaging epitome images. The locations that offer a many to a macro photographer, is in my knowledge places with lots of flowers and plants. Botanical gardens are great.

The best time to go out if we wish to fire bugs and insects is whenever a outward heat is about 17°C (63°F) or warmer, as insects tend to be some-more active when it is comfortable outside. On a other hand, if we are good during anticipating insects where they rest (I have privately found this really hard), they are some-more still when it is cold. Some macro photographers like to go out in early summer mornings to locate a insects when they sleep.

Overcast continue is customarily improved than balmy weather, as it gives a softer light.

#3. Flash

If we are sharpened really tiny subjects, such as insects, a focal craft will be intensely slight – a integrate of millimeters or so. Thus, we will have to set your orifice to during slightest F16 to have a possibility of carrying many of an insect in focus. With a tiny orifice like that and a need for a high shiver speed (due to a jolt of a lens and a subject), a peep is a must. You can use any peep for macro photography, in many cases, even a built-in pop-up peep of cheaper DSLRs work well. My personal favorite is a cheap, compress and lightweight Meike MK-300.

There are some macro photography situations in that a peep is not particularly needed. One conditions is if we are fine with sharpened during F2.8 or F4, and there is copiousness of sunlight. This could be a box if we are not going all a approach to 1:1 magnification, and so can get a good abyss of margin with a vast orifice (when we pierce divided from your subject, a abyss of margin will increase). The upside with not regulating a peep is that we get some-more healthy looking photos with healthy light. But if we are going to fire insects adult close, and wish to have some-more than a tiny partial of them in focus, we will have to use a flash.

#4. Diffuser

If we are regulating a peep for your macro photography, we rarely advise regulating a diffuser as well. A diffusor is simply any white, unclouded element we can find, that we can put between a peep and your subject.

The incomparable a light source, a smoother and softer a shadows in your photos become. This is because outrageous octaboxes are renouned in mural photography. And this is because we should use a diffusor in macro photography: It creates a stretch of a light from a peep most larger, and so a light in your photos will demeanour reduction harsh, and a colors will come out better.

In a beginning, we used a normal white paper that we cut a hole in and stranded a lens through. It was a bit groundless yet and would get crumpled during transport. My subsequent diffusor was a filter for a opening cleaner, that we also cut a hole by and put around a lens. This was a good diffusor as well. Currently, we use a purpose done soft diffusor, that can conveniently be folded together when not in use.

#5. Shutter speed

In macro photography, we will find that a tiny vibrations from your hands when holding a camera will be adequate to make a whole design burst around like crazy. Combine this with perplexing to sketch an insect sitting on a plant that is moving in a wind, and we have a genuine challenge. A high shiver speed is therefore endorsed generally for beginners. Begin with a shiver speed of 1/250 or faster.

However, a light generation from a speedlight is customarily intensely short, and can alone solidify your subject, even total with a slower shiver speed such as 1/100 s. The reason is that a peep will mount for a infancy of a light in a photo, so even if we occur to shake your camera, it will be hardly conspicuous in a exposure. With a brief focal length macro lens, we can take good looking photos even during 1/40 s shiver speed. The advantage of regulating a delayed shiver speed is that we can equivocate a black credentials that we differently mostly get in macro photos taken with a flash. Instead, we can get some tone into your background, creation a print demeanour better.

In summary: Start out with a quick shiver speed. When we have used a bit, try gradually obscure a shiver speed, total with a flash.

#6. Focusing

First of all, we can forget about autofocus right away. Most macro lenses’ autofocus is not quick adequate to keep adult with a jitters and jolt that comes with 1:1 magnification. It is useful to usually give adult a suspicion of autofocus from a really beginning, and learn to concentration manually instead.

Second of all, forget about tripods. Unless we are sharpened something totally static, such as a product in a studio, tripods will be really unreal to use in macro photography. For sharpened insects or flowers outside, we will be unhappy to spend time environment adult a tripod, usually to learn that a tiny vibrations of a flower in a breeze creates a print becloud anyway. Not to discuss that any insect will have flown divided during a initial 10 seconds of your 1-minute tripod setup.

Over time we have grown a following process of focusing, that we cruise gives a best results: Hold a camera with both hands, and preferably anchor your elbows opposite your sides or legs, to give even some-more stability. Then spin your focusing ring to approximately a magnification we wish to get. Then focus, not by touching a focusing ring, yet by solemnly rocking towards a subject, while perplexing to snap a print accurately during a right moment.

If we can get one out of 5 photos focused and pointy in a right place, we can cruise that a good ratio. Expect to chuck divided a lot of photos when doing macro photography.

#7. Focal plane

As already mentioned, a tighten focusing stretch will meant an intensely slight focal plane. You will find that a best macro photos come when we implement a slight focal craft in crafty ways. Thus, try to find subjects that are flat, and put them in a focal plane. Examples are small, prosaic flowers or butterflies photographed from a side, or beetles with sincerely prosaic backs.

Another instance of utilizing a slight focal craft in a artistic approach is to make an insect’s conduct “stick out” of a becloud bokeh, to make an engaging and aesthetically appreciative effect.

#8. Angles

A common newbie mistake is to conveniently snap a print from where we stand, during a 45-degree angle towards a insect or flower. This will make your print demeanour like each other newbie macro print out there – it will be boring.

Try to find odd angles, such as sharpened a insect from a side, from a front, or from below. Make use of your flip out shade if we don’t wish to yield on a ground. If a insect sits on a plant or a leaf, try pulling adult that plant to reason it opposite a sky – it gives we an engaging angle and a some-more pleasing background.

#9. Magnification

Something we did a lot as a amateur in macro photography, was to always go for limit magnification. we thought, “the bigger a insect in a frame, a cooler a photo.” But a law is that we can mostly find a some-more pleasing or engaging print if we behind off a little, and let a insect demeanour usually as tiny as it indeed is, decorated in a surroundings.

#10. Sharp objects

And lastly, never put pointy objects such as knives or drills opposite your costly macro lens. Despite what some YouTubers seem to advise in their thumbnails, also equivocate cigarette lighters and toothpaste. Putting things like this opposite your lens is usually useful for clickbait thumbnails on YouTube!


About a author: Micael Widell is a photography fan formed in Stockholm, Sweden. He loves photography, and runs a YouTube channel with tutorials, lens reviews and photography inspiration. You can also find him on Instagram and 500px where his username is @mwroll.

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